Islas Pitiusas & Insulae Baleares (Mallorca)

A number of things have changed since leaving mainland Spain for the Balearic Islands.

The scenery has become greener and Ibiza, the Roman Islas Pitiusas or Pine Island, lives up to its name with its covering of pine forests extending right down to the cliffs at the ocean’s edge. This is very much in contrast to the baron landscape of the Murcia and Valencia region

The weather is becoming more settled despite a massive thunderstorm accompanied by hailstones as big as golf balls whilst we were at anchor at the northern end of Ibiza. Generally though the sun shines from a clear sky and it is much warmer, around 28 degrees in the shade at midday. The water has yet to warm up above what Miggy reckons to be freezing: actually about 19 degrees.

We are in a windier area now with the influence of the Tramontana or Mistral, a wind resulting from a northwesterly airflow from a secondary depression in the Golfo de Leon or the Golfo de Genova on the cold front of a major depression crossing France being compressed between the Alps and the Pyrenees and flowing or, to put it more realistically rushing, into the Mediterranean basin. This wind can be dangerous in that in can arrive and reach gale force in as little as fifteen minutes on a calm sunny day with virtually no warning. Fortunately we have not experienced this but the sailing wind is better here than on the mainland and on our crossing from Ibiza to Mallorca, escorted by Dolphins, ‘Bella’ averaged 7 knots on a close reach in 12 to 20 knots of wind.

The wind can still be gentle, however, and sailing up the south coast of Mallorca with only the genoa set in 5 to 8 knots of breeze on a dead run was so relaxing until the wind shifted 180 degrees and rose to 20 knots in a flash!

Although the Balearics, and Mallorca in particular, have the reputation of being all that is worst in resort over development, this is generally confined to the proximity of airports and large cities such as Palma, Pollenza, Alcudia and Ibiza. In other areas the coastline is dramatic, beautiful and untouched by tourism with the exception of some small and upmarket resorts.

Mallorca gets its name from the Latin word for ‘major’ of the Roman Insulae Baleares. We landed on its shores at Puerto Andraitx, a place that we liked very much when we visited some fifteen years ago. The harbour sits in a natural amphitheatre surrounded by pine covered hills. The immediate surrounds are more developed, if not over developed, now but the place still holds its charm. Had we bought a small property here, as we had considered, all those years ago it would have appreciated in value by some 2400%. Well you can’t get it right all the time!

Thanks to Paul and Pauline from the yacht ‘Shellseeker’, cruising friends of like mind who we last met in Viviero on the north coast of Spain over a year ago, Miggy went scuba diving in her newly purchased gear and thoroughly enjoyed every second of it. Thanks both; it was so good to see you again and to spend some time with you. It was also good to see Renate and Hanspeter from the yacht ‘Flamingo’ again.

The great joy of cruising these Islands, particularly out of high season, is to anchor in a deserted ‘Cala’, or inlet, surrounded by rocky tree clad cliffs where the sea is azure over white sand and there is solitude and peace. The water is so clear that Miggy swims out to make sure that the anchor has dug in securely. We are looking forward to sailing to Menorca in the next day or so where the ‘Calas’ are reported to be even more idyllic than those of the other Islands.

We are getting into the territory and the time of year when the price of Marina berths increases exponentially it would appear. We learned from a friend in Sardinia that 38 euros (£27) he was paying for a berth in March would increase to 138 euros (£97) in August! We experienced this in Ibiza recently where we grudgingly parted with 55 euros (£39) and it is only mid season! We are learning however and we have discovered Town Quays in the major Ports run by the Port Authority where the cost of a berth is around 5 euros (£3.50) a night. We prefer to anchor when permitted by the weather and our stocks of fresh water and battery power.

The quality and availability of fresh foods is not as good here on the Islands as it was on the mainland and the price is slightly higher. We can still get a reasonable bottle of Rioja for 2.50 euros (£1.75) though so we are happy. Eating ashore at any half decent restaurant is certainly more expensive than the mainland and one can expect to pay at least 40 euros (£28) a head including wine. We enjoy Miggy’s excellent fare on board and venture out only on high days and holidays.

Our Spanish telephone number +34 636 587 556 is operative in these Islands and will be valid until such time as we move on the Sardinia in June. We will advise of our Italian number then.

We wish family and friends well and send our love and kind thoughts from us to anyone who reads this ‘blog’.